Wednesday, June 8, 2011

The French and religion

So since the French Revolution and the beheading of Marie Antoinette, et al., there has been "OFFICIAL" "separation of church and state" in France. This means that the state does not recognize things like marriages performed by a priest or minister, among other things. You MUST have a civil wedding down at the Mairie's office (roughly translates of course as "Mayor"); every village has one of these, traditionally on side side of a building in the middle of town, the other side of which is the primary school.

Traditionally people would get married in the Mairie with just family and attendants present, and then walk down to the church, where the priest and other guests would be waiting for them on the church porch; then they would have a church wedding. Now they either go in cars, do the civil ceremony the day before (c.f. Prince Albert of Monaco, I'll get to him in a minute), or omit the church ceremony entirely.

Virtually NOBODY EVER goes to church except for the occasional baptism, marriage or funeral.

So, could somebody please explain why virtually ALL the national holidays are religious? Since we have been here this year, there has been Ascension Day (last Thursday), and there will be Pentecost (next Monday); not sure yet whether the Feast of Corpus CHristi is a holiday, but it happens shortly after Pentecost, and it is certainly a holiday in some parts of seriously non-Christian Europe.

And a local aperitif is made from green walnut leaves, dry red wine and vodka or plain spirits (lots of walnuts, walnut oil, walnut cake, etc. around here), which MUST be picked on the Feast of St. John, which happens to be June 24.

Marilyn and Tony spent a day in Monaco on their trip; Prince Albert's approaching wedding (July 1, I think) is the big event there. Lord knows, they need some good news in Monaco: Prince Rainier and Princess Grace both dead; the complicated love lives, marriages, etc. of Princess Caroline and Princess Stephanie; the pecadillos of Prince Albert, what with illegitimate children and such...Although she is 20 years younger than he (he's 53), and she's evidently been "in training" to become Princess of Monaco, what with having to be fluent in a zillion languages, learn all this royal protocol and stuff, she is very pretty and blond and we all hope she produces a son and (legitimate) heir so there won't be any unhappiness about the principality either reverting to France or about having a (gasp!) female succeed Albert...

The civil ceremony is to be in the Mairie or equivalent, of course. The religious ceremony won't be in Monaco's cathedral because it is too tiny. It will be in that giant place in the middle of the palace (I think) with something like 10,000 people watching. Should be a jolly good show...

Cheers, Lillie

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